Visiting it today, it’s hard to understand how something this large and spectacular could have remained hidden for so long. But there’s a certain enchantment in imagining you are the explorer who finds it for the first time in centuries. It’s slightly easier this morning because I’ve come before the official opening hours to climb to the top in time for the sunrise (a privilege for which you pay ten times the normal entrance fee). There are only a handful of people here and there’s a peace and serenity fitting for such a spiritual place.
I’m told by some tour guides that the site gets absolutely packed during the day – to the point where it’s hard to even climb up the narrow and steep staircases, let alone lose yourself in the moment. I’m glad that’s not going to be me.